Pai is a small town in northern Thailand near the Myanmar border, north of Chiang Mai on the northern route to Mae Hong Son. It lies along the Pai River. The town has thesaban tambon status and covers parts of the tambon
Wiang Tai of Pai district. As of 2006, it has a population of 2,284.
Pai is a predominantly tourism-oriented town, offering a relaxed atmosphere with a broad traveller and
backpacker scene. In early 2006 a sudden boom in guesthouse and bar construction has resulted in a great deal
of spare capacity — capacity that is partially taken up by an increase in Thai people visiting after Pai was featured
in a romantic Thai film. There are now around 200 guesthouses and hotels in Pai, and the city center has
transformed into containing western style restaurants, souvenir shops, and bars that cater largely to the now
significant influx of tourists and package tours.
The town itself is best explored on foot. For exploring further afield, bicycles (40-100 baht/day) and motorbikes
(from 100 baht/day) can be rented from many agents along the main street. Motorbike taxis are also readily available.
The town itself has no special sights; most people come simply for the relaxed atmosphere. Nearby attractions include
hot springs and waterfalls, and a hilltop temple. There is also a wonderful canyon which provides the perfect spot for
a sunset. This is a great spot to visit after seeing the WWII bridge built by Japanese-held POWs.
Poi Sang Long is a famous buddhist children ordaining festival, especially in Mae Hong Son. Thai Yai cultural
dance show can be seen at the temple fair, in the night.
Rent a bicycle or motorbike and visit one of the nearby waterfalls and hill-tribe villages. Pai is also a major starting
point for organized trekking tours which are offered by every guesthouse and travel agent.
Whitewater rafting trips abound and there are numerous elephant camps. Additionally there are several hot springs
in the area.
Visit Tham Lod cave, approximately 55km from town on the road towards Mae Hong Son, 9 km from Soppong
(Pangmapha). About an hour and a half on motor bike, or join a tour. Visit just before sunset (3pm-6pm) and see
the thousands of birds descending into the cave for the night.
Elephant Antics
For several years now, travellers have enjoyed riding an elephant and concluding the trip with a romp in the Pai River.
For this ‘adventure’, take as little as possible – you’ll be enjoyably wet as the elephant is encouraged to shower you.
Some operators – and there are several – are willing to take photo’s of you while you enjoy the elephant antics in the river.
Waterfalls
Mae Yen – 7 kilometers out of town with no bikes allowed for the last 6km of that. Head East over the
bridge heading out of Pai and follow the signs.
Pam Bok – on the road to Chiang Mai before Pai Canyon. Nice secluded waterfall with high cliffs surrounding it,
making this a very cool place to escape the heat. Go for a relaxing bathe in the shade during the dry season.
Mo Paeng – West of the city past Santichon (Chinese refugee Village). The upper section of this waterfall is a
natural water slide during the dry season. The rocks are smooth, just find a small section and slide on down like the locals do!
Route 1095 which connects Pai with Mae Hong Son (50km as the crow flies, but approx. 110km by road)
and Chiang Mai (135km) is a very scenic route through the mountains which takes several hours (but worth it).
It’s a steep and windy drive, with lots of curves, so take a plastic bag and some motion-sickness pills if you
need them.
By motorcycle
Route 1095 isn’t as bad as people make it out to be. There isn’t much traffic and you can hear the cars and
trucks coming. If you’re a little adventurous, rent a motorcycle in Chiang Mai and make the ride up to Pai.
You can stop at the waterfalls and small towns along the way, and you’ll really enjoy the trip, as opposed
to being motion sick in a bus for hours, and being forced to stop at the driver’s friends restaurants.
The scenery is absolutely gorgeous and being on a bike makes you feel like part of the mountains.
The locals will think you’re crazy, and the construction crews get really excited when you come through.
Make sure to take some warmer clothing on your bike, as it tends to get a bit chilly in the higher portions
of the ride. As a novice rider, expect the trip to take around 5 or 6 hours, including stops at sites and
restaurants along the way. aYa Service offers one way rentals from Chiang Mai to Pai (or vice versa)
with luggage delivery for additional 500 baht.
By bus
Buses and minibuses go to Chiang Mai (Arcade terminal) and Mae Hong Son. Regular public buses
take around 4 hours and charge about 80 baht; minibuses take around 3 hours and tickets
(sold by travel agencies) cost about 160 baht. One strategy is to get to Pai using the public bus so that
you can get an idea as to how winding the road is and then you can decide if you want to splash out and
get the mini bus back to Chiang Mai.
To feel less travel sick and save some money take the regular public bus. The scenery is lovely and the
winding roads are much easier on one’s stomach if you take things slowly.
From Chiangmai: Local Bus from Chiang Mai to Pai leaves the Arcade Bus Station, five trips during a day (07:00, 08:30, 10:30, 12:30, 16:00). The trip takes about 4 hours and there is a comfort stop at the small
half way village of Mae Sae (very good Northern sausages and traditional chicken curry noodle soup available
as well as other necessities food water toilets et cetera). Bus trip costs approximately 80 Baht.
Minibuses and Small passenger trucks (song taew) carrying a dozen people also leaves from the bus station
as often as there are sufficient passengers or full paying passenger. (cost of private hire is approximately 1200 or
share for approximately 150 Baht). The rear seats approximately 10 people and is open air. The view and wind
in your face is pleasant, but not the occasional exhaust fumes.
By plane
The nearest domestic airport is in Pai. SGA Airlines (codeshared by Nok Air) operate one or more daily flights
between Chiang Mai and Pai, depending on the season. Flying time is 25 minutes. Passengers can make reservations
and purchase tickets through the airlines’ websites, their call centres or with a travel agent.
here’s an abundance of guesthouses in Pai, most of them in the budget range (a bungalow goes for around 100-500 baht depending on amenities included). Mid-range options are available and there are now even luxury hotels, such as The Quarter.
Heading out of town there are swarms of bungalow setups.
At the bus station there is a map of Pai. Get this as it will show you the location of most of the guest houses (> 100 places). There is also a discount for motorbike rental.
For accommodation with lots of character try out a bamboo hut on the river. Head east from the bus station and either take the first left or continue straight. Either way you’ll reach a bamboo bridge. Across the bridge you’ll find plenty of cheap accommodation (about 200-400 baht per night).
For such a small town, there’s an astonishing number of restaurants, most of them catering for needs/tastes of foreign travellers.
Burger House – The owner Ed & wife Jec offers 12 different real beef hamburgers, chili, sandwiches, specials, dinners, pork chops the size of a Clive Cussler novel, beer, wine, etc. Located 100 meters east of the traffic light on the main road.
Drop Inn – offers gigantic versions of Western dishes for 120-150 baht.
Good Life – Veggies and vegans will love this place. It serves organic and vegetarian foods at decent prices. It’s not half bad either. The delicious breakfasts are great value.
Kin J – This little vegetarian restaurant between the main traffic light and the afternoon market serves a selection of purely vegetarian food daily. Get there early, as it’s mostly sold out by mid-afternoon. It’s only 25 baht for brown rice and two dishes.
Na’s Kitchen – Debatably some of the best Thai food in town. Na still works in the kitchen everyday, serving delicious northern food to tourists and Thais. She speaks great English, and will even teach you a bit of Thai if you ask nicely. Na’s is always a favorite of the long-stay travelers and the ones returning for a second, or third go at Pai.
<Unknown> – The Thai local restaunt of choice. Find it directly opposite the Pai District Office. Very few westerners to be found, but the menu is in English. Excellent Thai salads and sticky rice.
Curry Shack – Order a curry served in a coconut!
Charlie & Lek’s – The vegetables used in the cooking are grown fresh on their own farm and the bar has a wonderful relaxed and romantic atmosphere. Located on the road to Chiang Mai, just before the police station. Look out for a sign with the restaurant logo – We Love Lettuce!
Drink
There are many Western-style bars, especially along the main street that leads to the Chiang Mai bus stop. There are also many tea and coffee shops, including herbal brews.
Bebop Bar is famous for live bands.
Reggae Bar is on the road to Chiang Mai, just pust Ting Tong. This hard to find bar is the place for hippie hang outs. Look for the people sitting around a camp fire with acoustic guitars and djembe drums. Live music every night sometimes provided by the customers – feel free to bring along your own instrument!
“Don’t Cry Bar” Late night scene, open atmosphere, camp fire, pool table, good music.
“Bambo Bar” open till late(or early morning), nice cozy atmosphere, good food.
